![]() Replacing the camshaft sensor: The camshaft sensor is located on the right side of the engine, behind the water pump pulley. First we'll start with the easiest and cheapest of the two sensors. Tools recommended: Break Bar, Torque Wrench, ratchet driver and a full metrics ratchet socket set, one Q tip, large straight blade screwdriver, ratchet extension and adapters if needed. Important, disconnect negative cable from the battery before doing any work on electrical system. If your car is misfiring in a rhythmical pattern when you first start it up for the day or dieing when engine is hot, it could mean your Camshaft or Crankshaft sensors need replacement. Those always have a little metalic sheen to them. Now a rear end or transmission is different. There should be NO glitter whatsoever in engine oil, or any kind of debri. Then look for metal pieces and judge their size. If you can tilt the vehicle a bit for the oil to drain more towards the drain hole that could help. Some have described it as a loud pinging sound like detonation. Piston slap from a broken skirt can be pretty loud too but it mostly sounds like diesel rattle only a bit less. A spun rod bearing can be fairly quiet on idle depending how bad it is worn out, but it will be really loud on acceleration. Spun crank bearings are rare and sound deep. What it likely is is either a broken piston skirt or a spun rod bearing. The crank, rods and pistons are all in the bottom end of the engine. That dealer has a loose rod in his head maybe. I think this will be an excellent compromise as I do not want to run an oil cooler for the few times a year my car will see the track.SOURCE: 2002 Mazda Protege 5 knocking engine I've already got a big rad, Altima fans and controller, big oil pan, and block-off plates. My temps (read off the stock sensor) are typically in the mid-upper 80s or low 90s during summer (80 and 90 degree F weather). I read here and elsewhere that folks see water temps in the low 80s or even 70s Celsius during hot weather, and I have to remind myself that a lot of them have removed the air conditioning and the associated blockage of the radiator by the condensor I still have AC and plan to keep it and as such I've been doing a lot of research. ![]() I've been nervous about my car's cooling system being up to snuff on the track and have been looking for ways to beef it up without major money or work. Another nice thing about the part is that it's designed to work with the stock belt, so you don't have to get a new one. This larger pulley slows things down to a tolerable level. That's substantial apparently at high RPMs the water pump gets oversped and tends to cavitate, i.e. I talked to one of the guys at TougeFactory, and he's got one installed on his own car according to him at street speeds and RPMs it doesn't do much, but at high RPMs can lower temps by as much as 5 degrees C. This is a slightly enlarged water pump pulley. I found this the other day and ordered one today: It's open season on all newbs and dummies, where newbs and dummies are defined as anyone who asks any question on any subject.īut I digress. Ordinarily I avoid Zilvia, except when I'm buying/selling stuff or researching.
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